In recent years, fall orchard planting has been successful in some areas of Ontario, and has become the norm in some neighbouring Great Lakes regions. There are several advantages to fall planting:

  • Available labour after harvest, or between late ripening cultivars.
  • More time to establish the trellis system (at least part of the basic structure).
  • More time to establish roots before soils freeze, and before summer drought.
  • Avoids planting delays in cold or wet springs.
  • Stronger growth the first summer compared to spring-planted trees.
  • Bloom synchrony with established trees, which synchronizes timing of fire blight sprays. Spring-planted trees bloom later than established orchards when temperatures are warmer, and are at higher risk of blossom blight if left unprotected or with fewer streptomycin sprays. This is especially important for replants.

But is fall the best time to plant, or are there any problems or concerns to consider?

Successful fall planting requires a combination of conditions:

  1. A well-prepared site with good drainage, weeds under control and minimal rodent and deer populations.
  2. Mild weather and warm soil temperatures for several weeks after planting to encourage root establishment.
  3. Nursery trees that begin their dormancy process early, including leaf drop.
  4. A nursery supplier that is willing to fall dig trees.
  5. Sufficient labour to plant trees quickly without drying.
  6. Proper soil conditions to dig and re-close the soil around the roots without leaving air pockets. The soil should be friable when worked to allow the soil to flow around the roots as the tree planter passes. This last point is probably the most critical. There are some fall seasons that are just too wet and proper soil conditions are never achieved after Oct 15. It is a costly mistake to "mud" trees in if the soil is too wet. This can lead to tree dessication and death. In those years trees should be left in the nursery or stored until the spring.

Nursery trees need to experience cool temperatures and short daylengths to encourage dormancy. Frost will promote leaf fall, and some nurserymen use copper sprays to encourage leaf abscission. If trees are moved before dormancy, they could begin to grow again, which could predispose them to winter injury.

Once the trees show signs of dormancy, they can be dug and moved. Total leaf removal is necessary only if trees will be in storage for some time, to prevent diseases. It is critical to prevent roots from drying out, especially since they may not be fully dormant. Use covering tarps and wet down any roots that seem dry.

The roots and soil need to be in intimate contact immediately after planting to ensure the trees survive. Where a tree planter is used, the presser wheels need to be adjusted properly. Hand planted trees should be tramped well around the trunk. A follow-up watering is recommended if a soaking rain does not occur within a few days.

There is a risk of winter injury with fall planted apple trees, especially to the lower trunk and scaffold branches, because they are the last to harden off fully. Mounding up soil up to a half-meter around the trunk has an insulating effect against sudden freezes, and can be left to prevent insects from boring into the rootstock. If the mound is not washed down by the third season, it should be removed to prevent rooting of the scion.

If all these precautions are followed, fall planting of apple trees can help your new orchard get off to a quick start next spring.